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Little Hot Pokers. Flowers don’t come much tougher than the Red Hot Poker. The trouble is that at full size they are often too large for the average border and can get quickly out of hand. Not so the new Dwarf Kniphofias, ‘Ember Glow’, ‘Fire Glow’ and ‘Pineapple Popsicle’. Kniphofia (Red Hot Poker) is a genus of showy perennials native to southern Africa, with most species found in the Republic of South Africa. Preferred growing conditions: Red Hot Pokers thrive in a wide range of soils including clay. Plant them in full sun. Mulch with common mulching materials in arid climates. Water regularly the first growing. Kniphofia / n ɪ p ˈ h oʊ f i ə /, also called tritoma, red hot poker, torch lily, or poker plant, is a genus of perennial flowering plants in the family Asphodelaceae, first described as a genus in 1794. It is native to Africa Description. Herbaceous species and hybrids have narrow.

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Suitable basketry material from the garden will vary depending on the project however any material that is flexible and can be bent may be suitable.

Test out plants flexibility twist and wrap leaves around your finger. If it’s flexible when fresh then it may be pliable when dried .Bend vines and poles to see if they bend the amount required. Try plants at different seasons to test flexibility and what they look like.

Some materials are better used fresh and others better when dried and dampened. Some techniques are better with fresh others with dried. Fresh materials will shrink as they dry leaving a loose weave.

Some commonly used plants for weavers are most leaves from bulb plants e.g. iris, watsonia, daffodils, Aunt Eliza. , red hot pokers, arum lily, NZ flax, Cordyline, hops. Climbers such as passionfruit, Honeysuckle & jasmine, Kangaroo paw, banana stems, bulrush.

Frames and stakes can be made from grapevine, wisteria, willow, fruit tree pruning's, bush sticks and branches, bamboo.

Most materials need to be dried, wet and then wrapped in a towel overnight to condition. The amount of wetting varies with materials from a few seconds for arum lilies to a couple of days for grapevine or Willow.

To ensure a supply of suitable materials they need to be collected, dried and stored.

TO COLLECT MATERIALS:

• Cut or pull the leaves from the base of each plant. Keep the bases of the leaves together in bundles,
• Discard any damaged. Dirty or mouldy leaves.
• They can be spread out on a clean, dry surface in a shady area with plenty of air movement... Turn the heap of leaves frequently to allow them to dry evenly. When dry tie in bundles or secure with rubber bands.
• Or you can hang them in a dry shed preferably well ventilated and dark.

STORING

• Each bundle should be protected from dust, and moisture. This can be done by wrapping in newspaper securing with tape and labled .
• Small leaves like corn leaves and philodendron leaf bracts can be stored in cardboard boxes.
• Store in a dry place.A cupboard is ideal.

CHECK your material regularly to make sure that they are still in good condition. Discard damaged leaves.

For more information on suitable material an excellent reference book is ‘Fibre Basketry. Home-grown and Handmade’ Basketry SA

You can harvest basketry materials from your garden throughout the year

From October to December collect the following leaves as they start to die down:

WATSONIA

CROCOSMIA (winter gladioli)

CHASMANTHE

WINTER IRIS

KNIPHOFIA (red hot poker)

In summer you can collect:

CUMBUNG/BULL RUSHES

IRIS all species

DIETES

KNIPHOFIA (red hot poker)

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KANGAROO PAW leaves

LOMANDRA AND OTHER NATIVE GRASSES.

DAY LILLIES

ARUM LILLIES — the very fleshy stems & leaves dry beautifully to create a silky smooth fibre

In autumn many plants die down in preparation for winter. This is the time to collect some of the

IRISES and other strappy leaves as they are faster to dry without so much danger of them going mouldy.

IRISES — select those which have not been chewed or damaged

ARISTEA — these are one of the very few plants which produce an almost black leaf

DIANELLA — coil with the shiny side in so that they don’t shrivel into a tight cylinder

VINES and CREEPERS —WISTERIA is wonderful. Coil to desired size to store.

CANNAS and GINGER — strip individual leaves, bundle and hang to dry.

DAY LILLIES which die off for winter

PINE NEEDLES — many trees drop their needles at the end of summer

Collect anytime:

SWEET CORN LEAVES — try your local greengrocer.

PHILODENDRON LEAF BRACTS — they have a rich red brown and feel like leather when dampened.

NZ FLAX — remove the centre rib from each leaf and coil them by rolling with the shiny side into the centre so that they don’t shrivel into a tight cylinder.

FINE NATIVE GRASSES, REEDS) RUSHES, CAREX.

CORDYLINE — pull dry leaves from the plant before they become tattered.

In September/October collect the JACARANDA leaf stalks as they fail.

In winter deciduous pruning’s of

TREES AND VINES,

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WILLOW,

DOGWOOD

Introduction

Kniphofia (family Xanthorrhoeaceae), commonly known as red hot poker, originate from Africa. Kniphofia are fast growing perennials that prefer full sun and well-draining soil. The showy flowers attract birds and last for a long time which makes them a popular garden plant for New Zealand gardens.

The aim of this trial was to identify the top performing Kniphofia species or cultivars for Auckland conditions. These would also be added to the African Garden at Auckland Botanic Gardens. The key objective was to identify long flowering Kniphofia with clean foliage that are relatively resistant to snail and thrip damage and black spot.

Methods

Kniphofia were planted 26th November 2013. Several additions to this trial were planted in autumn 2014. Kniphofia require plenty of space and were 40 cm apart. All twenty-one Kniphofia cultivars were represented by three individuals, but only one each of the five Kniphofia species were planted.

Plants were grown in full sun, bark mulch and no fertiliser was applied at time of planting. Management of plants during the trial included one late winter cut back of two out of three of the cultivars, leaving the third plant as a comparison for their growth response following the cut back (mid-August 2014). Deadheading occurred only when seeds turned brown.

Plants were assessed quarterly during flowering for pest and disease, specifically snail and thrip damage and black ink spot (Fig 1). Flowering was recorded weekly for development of buds, flowers and seeds. Overall size of the plant was measured for across the widest part of the foliage of all three plants then averaged. We also measured foliage height (cm) from the base of plant to highest point of foliage three plants then averaged. External evaluations were conducted in December 2014 and March 2016. This trial ran for three years and concluded at the end of July 2016.

Figure 1 Black ink spot on foliage of Kniphofia infecting foliage and stems

Results and conclusions

From this trial, five cultivars were assessed as star performers by scoring an 8 or higher on the ABG rating system which is the threshold above which we recommend to Auckland gardeners (Table 1). They had long flowering periods and were relatively pest and disease free. Species were included in this trial as a comparison with commercially available cultivars. Their performance was variable although some scored a high rating. They are excluded from our list of recommendations as they are not generally commercially available. Star performers and species are now displayed in the ABG African Garden. All cultivars recommend are commercially available. Four cultivars in this trial (K. ‘Ernest Mitchell’, K. ‘Winter Cheer’, K. ‘Shining Sceptre’ and K. ‘Pineapple Popsicle’) scored very highly in all categories but because they scored more than 25% black ink spot their overall rating was dropped.

Kniphofia caulescens died early on in this trial, therefore no flowering records and plant size data is reported here. K. ‘Peachy Cheeks’ supplied might not have been correctly named as flowers were yellow rather than peach. Plants of K. ‘Green Jade’ did not do well with two plants dying before the end of the trial and not flowering.

Snail damage was noticed in mid-October on almost all cultivars but plants quickly recovered from damage. Kniphofia were relatively tolerant of frost, and many are deciduous. All Kniphofia in this trial had signs of black ink spot at some stage during the trial. Most Kniphofia in this trial had less than 25% of the plant affected by black ink spot (Fig 2).

Figure 2 Average percentages of black ink spot (2015-2016) on Kniphofia in ABG trial

Kniphofia are renowned for crossing and seeding out in gardens, therefore we recommend deadheading regularly after flowering but before seeds ripen. We pruned plants back in mid-winter and they grew back well. A late prune results in reduced flowering however this promotes healthy, clean foliage.

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Acknowledgements

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We would like to thank our external experts for helping evaluate this trial.

This article cannot be republished elsewhere without consent from Auckland Botanic Gardens.